Hiking to Wuyanjiao Cape, Yilan
This hike is an adventure. It involves climbing down and up a 300+ meter cliff, a scramble across a boulder strewn coast, and a hundred meter swim. If that hasn't put you off then read on. The reward at the end is a scenic and secluded beach with caves and a jagged island/cape. The hike itself is fun, but know what you're getting into and don't do it on a scorching day like I did. It's also best not to do it on a day when the sea is rough as the alternative to the swim really requires climbing gear.
Wuyanjiao (烏岩角 Dark Rock Cape) forms one end of the Central Mountain Range. From this little peak the mountains grow steadily taller climaxing at Taiwan's highest point, the 3952m Yushan.
Most people visit the cape and its beach via kayaking trips organized at nearby Dong'ao. This is definitely an easier way to do it and you'll see some other sites along the coast too. However, from watching a few groups come and go during my time on the beach I observed that you don't really get that long to explore. Also a significant amount of time is taken up by group photo ops. Lastly, arriving and leaving in a noisy crowd (sometimes there were two large groups of 30+ people each on the beach at once) ruins the feeling of seclusion and tranquility. I was also annoyed to see the kayakers littering but was exhausted after the hike and didn't want a confrontation. It was a relief when the crowds left and it was just my small group and a team of climbers left.
The Hike
The trip begins near a small concrete building that's hanging over the cliff on the Su-ao to Dong'ao Highway. There's a little parking area up here. Unfortunately this is not a hike that is really possible with public transport but organizing a taxi from Su-ao to drop off and collect is an option. The start of the hike is very steep with a few vertical rope climbs and a lot of loose material. It would be best to have done some hikes like this before and not be a total beginner. At the start of the hike Wuyanjiao looks tiny. Even though it is 73 meters tall, about the same height as a 23 floor building, when viewed from the road at 346 meters it's just a dot.
Halfway down the cliff huge terraces quarried in the middle of the 20th century are visible on the right. There are perhaps a few old building remains up there but I couldn't see a good way up.
It'll take about an hour to get down the cliff. Thankfully the sections towards the bottom were shaded. The beach at the base is deserted and scattered with big rocks. One straddling the beach has a cave cut into it some ways up. I can't tell if this is natural or if perhaps it's a little shrine alcove made by the quarry workers. The coastal shelf on these east coast beaches drops away sharply but if the sea is flat and calm it should be ok to have a refreshing dip here.
Heading towards the cape the beach soon turns from sand to large boulders. I find jumping around on these pretty enjoyable. Small streams tumble through this rock field and there was less garbage here than on the more northern coasts. Although sadly nowhere in Taiwan escapes that scourge there are local initiatives like … blue dot … helping to alleviate it. From the beach the road that used to serve the quarry is visible snaking along the coast. Many sections have already fallen into the sea.
You can see the old road as a ledge in the cliff
Looking towards the boulder field and cape
After the boulder field you have a choice regarding how you get to the beach, but it is not a very good choice. There is a path with some ropes across a high headland. It's extremely dangerous and firmly in the one slip and you're dead territory. In the only YouTube video I've seen that completes this the hikers had pulleys and harnesses for safety and I wouldn't attempt this without them. There's an angled section where you have to leap a little. It would be very easy to get wrong. As that was out of the question we observed the sea and decided that a swim was possible. Although it was a little tricky getting into the water we're all strong swimmers and it wasn't difficult. I could sense a current pulling me away from the beach at the end but it was not particularly strong and it was helpful on the way back.
Can you make out the ropes on the route across this headland?
The beach is a beautiful, wild landscape blessed with calm waters as Wuyanjiao acts like a shield. There are a couple of caves that are surprisingly deep but mainly it's a serene place to relax after the journey there. It's possible to climb the cape but you will need professional climbing gear to do it unless you're very confident in your balance.
When you're ready to leave the only way back is the way you came. The swim was a little easier as it was with the current. The walk back across the boulder field was also ok.
A climber silhouetted on the cape
An old quarry structure. Looks like part of a pulley/hoist system
The real challenge was scaling the cliff again. It was in the last hour of this that the heat got to me and although I'd packed a lot of water it wasn't quite enough. It was about 35/36 degrees in the sun and I became concerned I was going to get heatstroke. However, after a lot of stopping and starting and some water donations the overhanging building came into view and I got a spurt of energy for the last stretch. 346 meters doesn't sound like a lot, but it's the same height as an 86 floor building! So definitely do this on a cooler day!
The cliff ropes eventually cut into our hands so we improvised some gloves
A delicious pork dish at an indigenous restaurant in Dong’ao
Overall apart from the last climb this was an exciting adventure. I'd like to try visiting again by sea though as I think climbing the cliff once was enough. The adventures that make up these entries are often posted as Instagram stories at tomrookart first. So give that a follow too if you like as it can sometimes be a year or more before stuff turns up here! Locations are on the Hidden Taiwan Map.
A look up at the old quarry ledges. It must have been a very dangerous workplace
A thunderstorm develops out to sea. Later there was a spectacular lightning show