Big Ghost Waterfall River Trace, New Taipei
This trace is a firm favorite and I've completed it a couple of times now. It is also popular with local river tracing groups so avoid going on a weekend if possible. It starts just past the vast ruin of the Shuinandong Smelter, at a smaller industrial site behind a headland. This was also a smelting complex but apart from one building it has been leveled. There are a few buses that head along the coast road here from Keelung but driving or renting a scooter in Ruifang would be much easier.
Part of the factory ruins
The easiest way to begin the trace would be to jump the wall, walk through the remains of the factory, and enter the river just past it. However there are signs warning of a 500'000nt fine for doing this. Why there is such a ridiculously large fine, and whether or not such a fine would be legally enforceable, I don't know. However, they don't own the river so if you want to be cautious start there.
Head down to the river on the coast side of the road and wade under the bridge. The river through the old factory here is actually quite fun to trace, with some tunnels and weirs. A note for those who are currently wondering about contamination: The water is this color due to a sulfur/mineral spring source further upriver and this is not coming from the factory site. As the site has been completely leveled and was partly state-owned I expect some clean-up took place and that there are no longer any pollutants leaching out into the ocean here. Taiwanese groups trace this almost daily in summer so I'm assuming it's ok. That said, I wouldn't put my face in the water during this section.
Heading under the road bridge and through the factory area
After the factory you'll come to a really fun section with large concrete culvert tubes. It's possible to walk upright through these and this is in fact the easiest way to head upstream. One tube has a constant stream going through it. During my first visit it was possible to walk through this and slide a little on the lower sections. On the second visit the water level was higher and it was too dangerous to go inside. A tube next to it stays dry and is the better option.
The dark tubes (this is the one with water. I kinda wonder if a tough rubber ring would make it through here on a high water day but I expect it would get damaged on the uneven joints
Just past the tubes you'll find the source of the orange tinted water. A mineral tainted spring emerges around here near a small waterfall. I've never been able to find the exact source, or feel any heat from the water, so sadly I don't think there's a hotspring here.
There is also a dam here that you need to take a trail around to the top of. River tracing groups use this for abseiling.
The river opens out into a stunning canyon here with giant boulders strewn around. The trail for the challenging the Stegosaurus Ridge hike crosses the stream a little upriver. I highly recommend this hike and I may write a short article about it in future too. It's an incredibly Jurassic Park-esque landscape and feels a million miles from Taipei.
A view up towards the Stegosaurus Ridge trail
Past the boulder field there's a small pool with a waterfall cascading into it. There's rope fixed by the falls and it's a fairly easy scramble up the rocks here. Local groups tend to get stuck here so it makes for a good alternative lunch spot if that’s the case.
Just beyond is Big Ghost Waterfall (I'm afraid I'm not sure where the name comes from). This is an attractive waterfall with a large pool. It's also easy to climb up the side and jump from some height.
Although it's either impossible or very difficult to climb up past this waterfall there is a way to get to the stream above it. You could then follow that to the smaller Little Ghost Waterfall which is a kilometer or two upstream. To get to the trail for that section there are two methods. One: Climb part of the Stegosaurus Ridge trail and take the only left branching trail at the top of the cliff. Two: Climb a shorter but steeper cliff face out of the end of the canyon you’ve just passed through. Both are very steep and you'll need good upper body strength and a very good head for heights. I haven't attempted the side trail to Little Ghost but a friend has and she found it enjoyable and worth checking out.
This is a varied and easy trace that is good for beginners. Pay attention to the weather as always and go as early as possible in the day during summer. Check out the exact location on the Hidden Taiwan Map. This blog and map take quite a significant amount of time to maintain and I'd appreciate any support through overthecityshop.com
Storm clouds gather on the coast road