Cycling from Keelung to Jinshan: Relaxed Round Taiwan Trip Part Three
The Wanli UFO’s
This is the third part of my slow, meandering, round Taiwan bike trip, that is also being quite slowly uploaded. Here we're heading from Keelung Station, passing Wanli and Yehliu, and ending in Jinshan. It's an easy ride but despite the short distance there are tons of little sights, hikes, and other distractions along the way.
I biked from Keelung to Tamsui over two days, staying overnight at a Jinshan hot spring resort. This is however an easy ride and both parts could be done in a single day if you're reasonably fit. The total distance is about 55km on the highway, a few extra km if you take the bike paths and detours.
I used my own bike, taking it on the local train to Keelung. I was planning to take the MRT back to Taipei, but ended up cycling that leg too A friend rented a bike in Tamsui (he lives there) and brought it to Keelung, returning it at the end. It was quite difficult to organize an overnight rental though. Rental for two days from Taipei would also be an option.
Coast bike path near Dawulun
It might be possible to do this in one day with a youbike. I did notice youbike stations in a couple of places during the trip. However Keelung doesn't have any so you'd need to start somewhere around the Qidu/Xizhi area. This coast has plenty of bike paths and segregated routes. The only significant road portion was the highway into Tamsui on the last stretch of day 2.
Keelung to Wanli
Starting at Keelung Station head out along the port road and up the gently sloping Zhonghua Road. Turn right at Xiehe Street and follow this to the first of many small fishing villages along this coast. Head down the steep slope and through Wai'mushan. When you emerge there will be some large gas tanks on your left and a small lido on your right. Behind you will be the tall chimneys of the Xiehe Power Station.
Following the coast around you'll pass the pretty sandy bay of Dawulun. This is a shallow little beach that has become quite popular in summer. It makes a good option if there are rough seas at other beaches though it's a little hard to reach via public transport. While the beach itself is kept clean ocean currents bring a ton of trash to this coastline. I was happy to see freshly bagged trash at quite a few spots over this trip but it's a never-ending task.
The next town is Wanli, which also has a great beach and a good Vietnamese Restaurant that’s not far from the coast road. Just past the White House Resort is the somewhat famous abandoned UFO village.
The distinctive yellow pods here are known as 'futuro' homes, and were designed by a Finnish architect called Matti Suuronen in the 1960's. They are an iconic retro-future piece of architectural history and unlike anything else in Taiwan. They were put here by a Taiwanese businessman as part of a vacation home development. However Wanli never really took off as a tourist resort and just a couple of hotels here seem to be doing ok. The UFO homes sold poorly and gradually fell into ruin.
Years ago it was possible to enter a most of them but now all but a couple are sealed and the interiors are in a terrible state.
Circa 2018 there were some old TVs still
A kitchen area in 2023
A moment of terror when I thought this was a real dog for a second. This pod is now sealed
A venturo home in 2023
There are also some more conventional pod homes here called 'venturos'. There's some debate as to whether the Wanli futoro homes are actually real futuros or Taiwan knock-offs, and it seems the latter is true. There's a lot of information about them online in English so I suggest googling them if you want a more in depth write-up than I can really fit in a cycle route blog.
A waterspout off Wanli beach on a stormy summers day, and some tasty pho
Next to this is another large abandoned resort building, formerly part of the Green Bay Hotel. I even spotted another castle like ruin on a road further up the hill. After writing about the ruins of Beitou perhaps another article on the ruins of Wanli would be worthwhile! I haven't been in either of these castle ruins, the Green Bay one would have meant squeezing through shattered glass, and I was too lazy to cycle up the hill to the other. We were also distracted by an extremely cute puppy called, for who knows what reason, Lamei (hot girl).
Wanli to Jinshan
Five Caves Head
Back on the road after exploring the UFO Village, and maybe having a swim if it's summer, you'll soon be in Yehliu. This is a very well-known and popular stop on bus tours in this area. Before reaching the famous peninsula, I recommend stopping off at Wanli Five Caves Head (萬里五洞頭). This is another scultpted headland but the coolest feature is the little pillbox that's been carved out of the soft rock at the top. As with much of Taiwan, the coast here is dotted with little pillboxes and sentry points, but this one has a Flintstone's-esque charm to it.
Weird rocks at Yehliu
The Yehliu Geopark is a famous collection of rock formations that look like they belong on an alien world. The most famous is the Queen's Head, though my favorite is the one that looks like a whale's tail. A short trail winds through most of the more popular rocks. It's easy to miss the group on the left as you walk into the main site (where the Playful Princess rock is). If you have time (and you probably do), the walk out to the end of the peninsula is quite nice and surprisingly dramatic.
The Queen’s Head and the end of the headland on a bleak stormy day
After Yehliu keep avoiding the highway and head through the coast road tunnel for a beautiful view of the cliffs.
On the coast road, some fishing boats, acrobatics at Yehliu, and mesing around in at Five Caves Head
After passing one of the nuclear plants you'll reach Jinshan. The main road is unpleasant but the old street market and small harbor area are nice to wander around. The cliff walk up towards Candlestick Beach is also scenic and you'll pass the shell of an old 1920's house.
A couple of the handful of larger historic buildings in Jinshan
Candlestick Beach
Sunset over the Yangming Volcanoes
Check out the Hidden Taiwan Map for the exact route and location of various sites